Wednesday, July 6, 2011

Exploring Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Parks ~ September 2010

I have to say, I am a little nervous as this is my first time . . . well, at least for a Trip Report.  There have been and continues to be so many really amazing TRs that I have found lots of excuses to just watch and dream of some of these places, that many of you have shown to me.  It has been fun seeing many venues through the eyes of so many of you.  Hopefully some of my locales, photographs and comments might cause you to stop and look, and maybe even garner a comment or two.  I realize that this location is something of a frequent stop, for many of the TC adventurers.  Maybe you might find the Yellowstone I know a beautiful place too, as well as stops in the Tetons and along the way.
It is not unusual for a hard and brief thunderstorm to break over the Rockies and this first day, starting out on the road started no differently.  As I was waiting for my son to bring over some of the final items for the trip, I kept watching the waves of rain coating the windshield of my truck waiting until that moment it was necessary to start the windshield wipers, to clear my view of the Flatirons of Boulder Colorado.  The world can be a little skewed, the way I see it, sometimes.




It is hard to say that my trips are just that, trips, because it is all a continuous journey for me.  So I am always looking for another adventure and interspersed along the way are some of my dearest friends.  So after four days of traveling from Boulder, Colorado, to Grand Teton National Park (Ok, I drive slow), I pulled up in front of one these friend’s house, in Moose.  They have one of those million dollar views, as they should for their dedication to their jobs;



I have to say, one of the reasons why I am doing what I am doing is to see the USA from my Chevrolet . . . well, maybe Dinah Shore should have been singing; Ford, for me that is.  The view from my LANCE Truck Camper’s passenger side window;



I spent two nights at their residence, visiting and getting some of the training for my Yellowstone leg completed.   Through the different phases of my life, I am very lucky to have friends scattered all over the United States.  One of the things I enjoy is stopping and visiting, while I am on my Endless Adventure.  I hope to find more friends along the way. 
The Fall Colors were just beginning and with my cameras, I hit the road with my get around motorcycle.    I stopped for the classic shot of the horse corral at Cottonwood Creek.  Sadly, the Taggart Lake Fire wiped out the old barns and the photos just don’t have the character they once did.


Just a few yards to the south, of the horse corral, is one of the trail heads for a classic day hike to Taggart Lake, for a 3.5 mile round trip hike.  I always like the south route, from the trail junction just west of the parking area, as it affords the hiker one of the best views of Avalanche Canyon and the Tetons. The hike down is along the creek, most of the way with the sound of the water joining you on the way down.  The area has had a massive Wind Throw and two subsequent Forest Fires and the beauty is still there and the area is recovering very quickly.


Having my friend joining me, we hiked another favorite place of mine, Phelps Lake.  It once was part of the Rockefeller Family’s private reserve and has recently been renovated and deeded over to the National Park as the Rockefeller Preserve Center;



One of the places I stayed at during my wild 70’s was at the Fabian Ranch, in Grand Teton National Park.  This ranch is now closed and has gone through some recent renovations, after many years of neglect and closure.  It was one of my favorite places to hang, as a green park ranger.  The current plans is to reopen it as a research ranch for different groups working within the park from distinguished places such as Michigan State University.  I will forever have so many fond memories there.

My final day in the Tetons was one another day of magical rewards.  This was the day I was going to get my  Kayak wet.   One my favorite paddles is down the turbulent Snake River.  I put in at the Jackson Lake Dam outlet, paddling through the famous OxBow and watching an entertaining ensemble of performing River Otter, sliding down the river bank and then scampering along the shore to once again grab my attention with another “water slide” down the riverbank, only to be often repeated as I floated around the next bend.  I try not to get too close to these very shy animal and only carrying a “point and shoot” camera with me only resulted in a superb picture of the river bank.  Being it was September, the cooler nights only made the water and the early morning push off, that much colder.  I was paddling alone, which is not recommended, but I have many decades of experience on the river so I didn’t hesitate for this opportunity of a full day paddle down to Menor’s Ferry in Moose.


Waking early, it was time to head north (slowly of course) to begin my stay in Yellowstone National Park.  For those that have traveled this route, they know too that it is very difficult to drive too long or too far without stopping for a break, or photo opportunity.  I have liked the fact there are numerous pull outs that are very generous.  Many parks have been taking the opportunity to enlarge many of the pull outs to accommodate the growing numbers of Truck Campers and other travel conveyances.  One of my favorites is the Cathedral Range pull out.  To find this, turn west off what is known as the inside road, to take the Jenny Lake Loop.  It is an amazing view and different perspective of the wonderful Teton Range.



Another stop, to get a chocolate malt at the Jackson Lake Lodge!, is a view of the Willow Flats.  Of course there is some wonderful hiking, just west of the Lodge at Emma Matilda Lakes, Two Ocean Lakes and Christian Pond and some great photo Opportunities with my iPhone 3g.

Right on the South side of Yellowstone is a group of free Campsites along the Snake River that I have been frequenting for almost 40 years now.  It is mostly filled with locals, park employees and the always present, fly fisher people.  This was my home base for the next two weeks as I explored the southern half of Yellowstone and the northern locations of the Tetons.



Of course, I always like to provide my million dollar dinner views from my camper;



The next morning I loaded up my motorcycle and crossed through the south Entrance station. 

It never ceases to amuse me in watching the family traditions and memories that are created at these entrances and no, I don’t know these people, but did find them fun to observe.


I arrived at my hike for the day, the Pitchstone Plateau to Phantom Fumarole (4.5 miles) and a little further (1.0 miles) Phantom Campsite. There are so many wonderful thermal features in the Yellowstone Backcountry and the hikes to them are just outstanding. Lucky for me, there are becoming less and less people hiking on the backcountry trails in Yellowstone and the Tetons.  This is a trail that runs along the east side of the Plateau, starting north of the South Entrance Station, 2 miles south of Lewis Lake, on the West side of the road.  The wildlife is thick in this part of the park and it is easy to be joined by extra parties enjoying the parks trails, a mom and daughter.


 The beautiful meadows and their travelers;





One of our favorite hangouts, in the 70’s was the Huckleberry Hot Springs and the nearby Polecat Springs is a favorite hiking destination;

Camping along the Snake River affords opportunities that often are not found in the usual campgrounds in Yellowstone, like running into the same group every year.  These guys show up for fly fishing and hunting and I always look forward to seeing them each year.  This day was a great day of drifting and fishing all the way into down the Snake into Jackson Lake.





Two Federal Wildlife officers stopped at my camp, to talk with me and the others guys that were there fishing.  They wanted to inform us that two separate grizzlies were released into the adjacent Winegar Hole Wilderness.  I had already watched a Grizzly, grub hunting, the day before; it did not come as any surprise.  So my hike to Indian Lake I remained extra vigilant for any large furry things heavier than me.  It actually was an omen, as I saw more bears this season than any of my previous 38 consecutive years of working, living and visiting the Yellowstone country.

I wasn’t surprised to see numerous fresh signs along the way of some of the residents of the area;




After arriving at Indian Lake, I was able to watch a group of Mallards fishing themselves, for the juicy seedling shoots;



It is always good to get back to camp, after a beautiful day of hiking and exploring the Yellowstone Backcountry.

Putting up the boots and relaxing.



Unfortunately I am sometimes beaten to the sack, by my trusted traveling companion.


After my time at the Snake River Camp, I moved to the north and central part of Yellowstone.  I spent a total of 49 nights in Yellowstone, hiking, backpacking and kayaking, never paying for or staying in a campground.  Even though the Truck Camper is comfortable, there is still something to hiking into a mountain lake, to feel and hear the night sounds around you.  Many parks have what are known as “walk in sites.”  These are sites that are a mile or so from the trailhead and permits are obtained at the appropriate park’s back country office.  So it is a great way of saving the campground fees, and in need of a base camp for crashing for the night and seeing the parks and other trails. 
I hiked into my backcountry site and grabbed some morning time reading the paper, until I heard off to my left a couple of residents I had not seen earlier.  I hiked back out to my truck to grab my camera, to capture the dances and pirouettes’ of this; Yellowstone Trumpeter Swan Ballet;

Each season, I return during September, which continues to be my favorite time in Yellowstone.  For many years, our family was governed by school years so we pegged our trips around the annual Perseids Meteor Shower, which by far is best seen at a higher altitude and away from manmade light pollution.  But, the other side of those phenomena is the glaring light of a Full Moon.  This year was my year to paddle during a full moon and three nights found me out doing just that.   While out on this backcountry Yellowstone Lake, it being a short distance that I could carry my kayak in, with a permit to do so.  Right at midnight I paddled the length of shoreline, watching two dark wolves hesitantly come in, catching a drink, watching and would have to be wondering what I might possibly be.  For me, it was just me silently gliding across the reflective surface.  One can’t begin to share what it is to listen to the operatic concerto of a Bull Elk bugling its heart out.  He performed this solo concert nonstop, for many nights.  I was caught up with just the cacophony of night sounds and just the feel of the water passing beneath me.  With each stroke, my paddle gently plied the dark water; moon beams fractured the beads of water as they were falling back to the lake’s glass smooth surface.  Then only to be repeated many more times, those three nights.  If you have not paddled a kayak, on a cold fall night in the light of a full moon, you should.   It is nights like these, that reaffirms why so many spiritual stories are part of the Native Indian axiom, such as the Ute’s and Shoshone Bannocks.

I spent twelve nights at my mountain lake, West of Canyon in Yellowstone.  What I didn’t know, at the beginning was that this summer I would be sharing the lake with more than just people.  My first day in, I was a few minutes in from my truck when I looked up, got to get out of the habit of looking down when I am hiking, and there on the trail was a large Grizzly Bear.  I stopped; knowing that the thirty to forty yards separating us, was a good buffer.  I slowly started backing up and could see the Grizzly continued to watch, but not approach.  I backed around a snag, beside the trail and turned and hiked, quickly, back the ¾ mile to my truck and camper.  No sign of the bear following me.  I have had bear encounters on trails before and they have all been a good outcome.  Within fifteen minutes of my return to my camper, I was outside, still thinking of my encounter when I saw the Grizzly again, walking across the short wooden bridge to the trailhead where I was parked.  It was the beginning of twilight with moderate traffic going by.  Grabbing a moment I retrieved my camera, just inside the door of the camper, not realizing I had left the door wide open as I left.  Numerous cars were now parked everywhere as a phenomenon known as a “bear jam” began in earnest.  With my polarizer filter and long lens, cars stopping in front of me, the three pictures were just a blur as was the moment.  I walked back to the truck, after the Bear, exited the chaos down the opposite embankment and then saw that my dog was transfixed in the open doorway, frozen in place, silent, as he seemed to process what he had just seen too. 

The next morning I was out in my Kayak, looking for any wildlife;




When I rounded one of the coves and came within twenty yards of a Grizzly Sow and yearling cub. She reacted just as I did, surprised.  I stopped paddling, slowly reaching for my small camera in my PFD, front glass case pocket.  My drift’ was slowly closing the distance between us, but not as fast as she was now closing this distance.  She “stiffed legged” to the water’s edge and I pulled up the camera as my right foot, grabbed for the rudder pedal.  My finger tripped the shutter release and . . . crap!  The low level light sensor sent a flash towards her.  Her response was a predictable foreleg stomping and lucky for me, no more forward advancement.  My paddle, lying across my beam, somehow returned to my free left hand and silently broke the water as I realized she could have covered the distance, between us, much faster than I could have fled.  Yep, wake up and know your environment .  .  .  
For four more days, I continued to see the Grizzly Sow and Cub, in the area and trails.  Each morning I would see her grubbing in the numerous fallen logs, along the shoreline and I did better at keeping my distance, observing and photographing other interesting things.
The episodes were not to end.  My second night in, at the camp known as the North Camp, I was in my tent, camper and truck 2 miles away at the trailhead and my midnight paddle, just a memory as I listened to the second night of Bugling by the irrepressible loneliness’ of this large Bull Elk.  Waking up, just after three in the morning, the Bugling was different, less urgent and then a crashing sound of the Bull Elk, running through the wind throw of the trees from the 88’ burn.  I waited and waited and didn’t hear anymore.   Just like anyone in my position, the call of nature was stronger and I pulled myself out of my warm down bag, into the sub freezing air.  I am always happy at times like this that I have my boots already ready for an exit, which is my long time habit in the backcountry.  Boots at the head, near the door, tongue pulled up and out, laces pulled up and tied, open enough to allow my socked foot to quickly enter the boot/s without fumbling for the laces or boots.  I stooped through the opening, grabbing the headlamp, even though I thoroughly detest their use in the woods in the night, as they destroy night vision and limit the bubble for which you exist.  I walked about two hundred feet down the trail, to a tree and started what I came out there for.  Almost immediately, I heard before I saw, I smelled a smell I knew what it was before I saw, there on the trail, to my left was a Grizzly, still thirty yards away.  I don’t have to tell you every shut down and I started talking loudly, pulling the headlamp out of my sweat pants pocket, turning it on, then to strobe.  The Bear froze; I retraced my steps back to the tent, not seeing any approach or sound of the Bear.  I pulled my “go” bag (In Bear Country I always have my day pack packed ready for any moment, that I need to go), pulled my Jeans on, stuck the SW 686 L Frame on, pulled my Bear Bell loose on the side of my pack and removed the magnet to allow it to sing’.  I cut across the woods to regain the trail again and hiked out to the Truck and Camper while singing show tunes and reliving, in my mind, Jack Olson’s version of a night like this.  Making the truck, I spent the night.  Call me scared, I call myself prudent.  (All my domestic duties were/are performed at my truck and camper.  My tent was nothing but a vehicle to sleep out in the woods and listen to the night sounds, so there were no foodstuffs or toothpaste in the tent.)
One of road patrol rangers came by that morning, and stopped to talk.  I shared my previous day and night.   Soon, placards with Bear Warnings were posted and he gave me the option of staying or going.  I stayed, but loaded up my pack, 686, Bell ringing and headed up to Wolf Lake, for the next two nights.  Beautiful lake and well liked by the fly fishing groups.  I don’t fish, but keep thinking I should start again.
After returning from my brief two night backpack trip to Wolf and Grebe Lake, I spent the remaining two weeks hiking and exploring many other trails to the Bechler and lakes like  Shoshone, Cygnet, Riddle, Mary and Grizzly Lake (appropriately named, but the only sign of any were scat and tracks).


I was never was one of the people that claimed that Yellowstone was burning down in 1988, as I had spent so many years in the backcountry witnessing the success of so many previous burns.  But, there are still areas that still resemble an asphalt parking lot, with such a total burning of the earth.  The burned forests are slowly recovering, some areas faster than others.
One of my favorite things to do is to find the details around me.  These Dime Sized flowers and smaller creatures that is so wonderful to just to take a moment, stop and look.  With two recent snowfalls, the fall colors were knocked off and the freezes were getting the final blooms of the season.  But if you looked just right, you could find some lingerers.



When a person visits Yellowstone, you can’t miss visiting and seeing the touristy things about the park.  These are the details that attracted attention to the area in the initial exploration of the area, then becoming a National Park, from the original introduction by Senator Pomeroy and signed, by President Ulysses S. Grant, into creation on March 1st, 1872.  No matter how many times I visit the park, I always have to stop and visit some of these locations.  The thermal features are by far the most visited and most unusual features in the parks.  In my case, I enjoy many of the features that are found in the backcountry, like the Shoshone Geyser Basin;


There are so many waterfalls that are just waiting for viewing.  Some of the best waterfalls are found along one of my favorite backpacking routes, The Bechler River.  There is nothing that can replace the feelings of hiking along a trail and come up to a grand waterfall, suddenly in front of you.  You have it all to yourself and the roar of the rushing water is enveloping to the senses.


There are more waterfalls in the Southwest corner of the park, than are found anywhere else, including the highest falls in the park, Union Falls.  A fun hike is found just between Old Faithful and Madison Junction, known as Fairy Falls, a round trip of 3.6 miles and the water cascades from a height of 196 feet.  It is not the most scenic falls, in the park.  As the waterfall alcove faces to the north and thus is in shade most of the time, thusly providing less of a photo opportunity.  But, on a hot summer afternoon, it is a wonderful refuge from the moderate heat the park has. 

One of the most accessible waterfalls in the park, is one of the grandest, The Lower Falls of the Yellowstone, where the river plummets down this waterfall, of two, 308 feet.  I certainly suggest taking the trail to Artist Point and climb the stone steps, taking the advantage of a superb vantage point.


There are so many wonderful stops along the Grand Loop, such as Biscuit Basin, Norris Geyser Basin and by far, my favorite; Black Sand Geyser Basin[.  This is an often overlooked stop, but I highly recommend this for a brief respite from driving.  One recommendation, that I highly recommend, is to visit this location on a moonless night, the later the better.  The eerie sounds and feelings that are found, sitting in a folding chair, listening to the pops, gurgles and growls of the earth’s sounds is just, just, well outstanding.  If you have one of those infrared guns, bring that along and scan the different heat zones of the pools from the center outward. It is shocking where the actual heat can be found and a quick understanding why the direction to stay on the boardwalk, is so important.



Just a few miles (3.5) to the southeast, is found a wonderful lunch hike to one of the most generous geysers in the park, Lone Star Geyser.  This trailhead is found adjacent to the popular Keppler Cascades.  It is an easy hike, or one of the few bicycle allowed routes, to the trail head at the Geyser, which is then just about a hundred yards further to the falls.  Most of the route is along a long abandoned paved road, paralleling the Firehole River.  There had been a picnic area down at the Geyser, but the Park Service abandoned it long ago.  I love hiking (2.3 miles) down to the Geyser, taking a lunch or dinner and sit and wait, watching the frequent visits by the Elk and Bison.  The Geyser erupts around 3 hours apart from a 12 foot cone, to a height of about 50 feet and an approximately 30 minute eruption, including steam phase.  Definitely worth visiting!

There are so many wonderful Geysers in the Yellowstone country and by far the most popular is the Old Faithful Geyser, found ironically at; Old Faithful.  One of my favorite things to watch on my laptop is the Old Faithful Webcam and sometimes coordinates with friends to see them in front of the webcam with signs.  It is easy to find parking, as it is very generous in this area, plus a post office and many other amenities.   There are so many interesting vantage points to view the eruption, so I will post one of mine. 


Old Faithful Geyser is amongst many other geysers, which erupt at different times, along different boardwalks.  One of these geysers is often seen erupting, while people are waiting for Old Faithful.  A particularly interesting geyser is, Beehive Geyser. 

Visiting the area should include a visit to the nearby Visitor Center, which had its New visitor center opened August of 2010;






Some might remember the old visitor center at Old Faithful, as I do and I just wanted to include my last visit to the center before it was demolished during the summer of 2009.

A visit to the Old Faithful area would not be complete without viewing some moronic things tourists do.  Ok, they are amusing, but still dangerous to these people and the people around them.
I suspect all of us have places that they feel are very important in their lives and the Old Faithful Inn is one of those places for me.  I try to reserve a day and evening where I can visit the area and spend an evening in the Inn, just to hear it go to bed.  This is a fact, the Inn goes to bed and being there until midnight or later you will find the sounds just captivating.
After returning from my brief two night backpack trip to Wolf and Grebe Lake, I spent the remaining two weeks hiking and exploring many other trails to the Bechler and lakes like ShoshoneShoshone Lake Geyser Basin, Cygnet, Riddle, Mary and Grizzly Lake (appropriately named, but the only sign of any were scat and tracks).
It is always humbling to have your boot prints, on the way in to Grizzly Lake, with a large and old Grizzly Bear’s track on top of them.  I have seen a bear following me, on a trail before, when I was on an upper switch back trail, so it is always a wake up clue that we are never alone in the park, even when hiking solo.
Sunset hikes to the Lone Star Geyser, is really magical in watching the steam phase and having the quiet solitude.  The Hike back to the trailhead is really easy with the well defined 10 wide trail, even after sunset.
  

In continuing the theme of tourist areas of the park and the Visitor Centers in the National Parks is one of these areas.  Yellowstone has had a rebirth of these centers and a recent one was to the Canyon Visitor Center.  Parkitecture seems to be seeing resurgence across the country and the Canyon Visitor Center is certainly one of these new structures;
In other posts I have talked about the wonderful opportunities that History Associations provide for different, National Parks, State Parks in that they often provide history, post cards, maps at different visitor centers.  These centers are often staffed by members of the supporting History Associations, often at no cost to the park/s.  What is often unknown is that members provide revenue streams to provide the National Parks, BLM, US Forest Service to add additional staff, programs and help purchase tracts of land to then deed to the National Parks or appropriate park.  I have been a lifetime member of the Grand Teton National History Association and also support Yellowstone Association.  I have to say I have more than paid back the initial cost of joining with the percent discounts I have received by my purchases at the different Parks I have visited.  Just like your local library card will provide access to public libraries on the road, your History Association Membership will provide you discount on your purchases at other parks History Association’s Visitor Center facilities.  So far I have never had another association decline giving me a discount.  It’s easy, it saves you money and it provides a benefit to your favorite park so just sign up!



Earlier, I had mentioned the scenery that is seen from driving the “Grand Loop Road,” and 98% of those that visit Yellowstone National Park only see the park from the roads within the park.  A very small portion of the park’s visitor venture more than a few minutes or even yards from the parking areas and attractions.  If you have the mobility to park the TC and venture a little farther, you will be greatly rewarded by even more attractions.  The time of day and time of year is often a factor in enjoying and seeing a unique side of any park and Yellowstone does not disappoint here either.  One easy example is the hike along the now partially closed Fountain Flat Drive, This road is paved and travels through some wonderful Fly Fishing areas and prime Bison Flats for viewing the transient herds.  Fountain Flat Drive can be accessed from north of the Lower Geyser Basin at one of the few roads for riding mountain bikes.  There is an interesting place to hike to, The Queens Laundry and there are many walk in backcountry sites, along this drive, to utilize. 

Continuing down the Loop Road is another trailhead that will take you along the opposite end of the Fountain Flat Drive.  Park in the area next to the steel bridge and early morning is a treat to see the fine examples of the areas thermal springs and erupting minor geysers of the Lower Geyser Basin, which is the trail to Fairy Falls.  Again, it is important not to venture off the trails and walk in the thermal areas, due to the extreme danger of these areas.



One of the many highlights’ of any of my adventures is to meet and talk with many interesting and exotic people.   Some of the people haven’t mastered the English language and are just out with a map and a dream.  These encounters are often met with a map, held in front of me, and an attempt of a name, like Tower Falls and I show the route through a number of gestures and a final “thumbs up” upon their driving away.  This one particular day I had an opportunity to meet couple, while I was out on a backcountry trail.  They shared how they were in the USA for a few months, traveling through the different national parks.  They operate a Para Gliding Company in Switzerland and couldn’t be happier with their current destination.  I pointed them to a nearby waterfall and mountain Lake and watch out for the Grizzly Bear.  The latter information caused the young lady to have a bit of trepidation, but they continued to venture on.  After four hours passing, they found me at my truck camper, which was parked at the trailhead.  They were amazed and excited in seeing the Grizzly and Cub, during their hike.  Of course, they had to take the obligatory picture and I grabbed one for myself.  Later, while walking down the trail, I found many grizzly tracks with circles drawn around them.  The hikers had been circling the track with their hiking poles.

Spending time in the area, you learn many places to escape and visit, like camping along the south side of Yellowstone. 



Being in this area allows you to visit both parks and the surrounding areas.  A quick trip down a moderately maintained road, known as the Reclamation Road or Grassy Lake Road, you can get into Ashton, Idaho for a quick Root Beer Float at Frostop Root Beer Drive Inn;



Sometimes the least visited attractions have a special attraction, like the Colter Bay Indian Arts Museum and Visitor Center.  I am a little partial to this museum, as I once worked there.  Rumor has it, it will be closed soon and the exhibits will be moved into storage and other locations around the country.  Sad, in that the museum has often been overlooked as it is so far off the main road. 

Within this area are some superb hiking trails, like Hermitage Point Loop Trail, a loop trail approximately 8.8 miles. 


I highly recommend the Swan Lake trail, which starts just south of the Marina and Visitor Center and travels easily through the Lodgepole Pines to a lake that often affords a pair of nesting Trumpeter Swans.   If you would like to escape to where the locals hang out, there is a Pizza place at Leeks Marina and Pizzeria, about 2 miles north of the Colter  Bay Junction. 


For those that never get enough day hikes, there is an abundance of these type of trails in the park.  Even though the mountains appear to be only available to those physically capable of tackling a trail of that type, there are all types of trails from easy to the technical. 

Grand Teton National Park History, for those that can never learn enough about an area, click here, for some additional reading.
It is always good to run down into Jackson to get some fresh fruit, Chocolate Milk and some fish to replenish the Fridge and stock the shelves. 

Of course stopping in Jackson, Wyoming is fun and stopping for some Mexican food at the; Merry Piglets or President Clinton’s favorite stopping place, Bubba's, for some down home Bar-b-Que and fix’ins.  Now, I don’t tell everyone about this out of the way, Local, Mexican Restaurant, so please; Keep it between you and I.  O.K.?  Here, it is just catty corner from the Albertson Grocery Store (a superbly wonderful grocery store, that you would find in a town of 100k population) (Another great grocery store can be found in Gardner, Montana, if you need something up in Northern Yellowstone, Oh, yeah!  The Mexican restaurant; Pica's Mexican Taqueria.  Please, keep this place between us!  You will find it a busy place, but mostly devoid of tourists.  There is some adjacent street parking and you will almost always find a truck camper parked at the curb too!  For the kids that just can’t eat something other than McDonalds, you will find that just a block north. 

Be sure to find some parking (there is nearby public parking around the outlaying roads), and take in the Town Square for the local flavor.  At each four corners of the square, yep it is square, are these semi permanent Elk Antlers that are gathered from the National Elk Refuge, that is just north of Jackson.  These antlers are gathered by the local Boy and Cub Scouts;



Since it is a 70 mile drive (one way), from south Yellowstone, it is easy to be heading back late afternoon and or early evening.  A good stop to view the sunset is the Snake River Overlook, along the outside road, from the top of Signal Mountain, The Oxbow, Picnic area south of Lizard Creek Campground, or my favorite, Willow Flats near the abandoned Moran Townsite;



The late season, in Yellowstone, means that the stores and grocery stores are closed or about to close and very little remain on the shelves.  There is a good Grocery Store in Grant Village and Colter Bay, but they do close mid to late September, so be sure to check your National Parks Website for the various updated Park Newspapers.  These Park Newspapers, Yellowstone National Park, Grand Teton National Park, will provide great information on Trip Planning for Yellowstone ~ Tetons, and also Campground/Services YellowstoneTetons  Information, and opening and closing dates Yellowstone ~ Tetons.  It is always good to have a little bit of planning done before even leaving on your trip.

Even though the Northeast can’t be beat for fall colors, the color in Yellowstone and Tetons, have their own unique colors, for those that wish to get off on the trails, or just stop and savor contrasts.



I have to say, Yellowstone seems to be a haven for Truck Campers.  I have never been to a place where I have ever observed so many Truck Campers in one park, or place.  I like numbers and it is easy for me to write things down, so I kept an informal tally.  I visited with 42 truck camper owners, of which none of them had heard of RV.net, but they all said that they would certainly look up the site.  O.K., three said that they don’t “do” computers.  The majority of the TCs were LANCE campers, 23 of 42. 

The largest percentages, of the truck campers that I saw, were Pop-Up truck campers and it was a buffet of brands.  Of the ones that I talked with, 6 of 42, they were more the adventurist type.  The majority I talked with were Outfitters and Palominos. 

The most interesting thing I witnessed and in watching Truck Campers, were the considerable amount of Truck Campers that were 15 years or older.  It was really fun to see the number of Truck Campers that were still out there, exploring the park/s.  The scary thing I saw were the number of newer Truck Campers that were very seriously overloading the back axle of their pickups. 

Yellowstone, being a very cosmopolitan park, there were a number of people that were traveling in the park from outside the country, as in this Truck Camper, that I came across at Old Faithful.  On the side of their camper was their website.




Many of these nights would get down to the low 20 F degree level, and I was running my generator every day, to keep my batteries charged up.  The 60 degree sunny daytime temperatures, made the extra efforts all worthwhile.  The sun was going down sooner and sooner and the days were certainly getting shorter, as it was quickly getting into the second week of October.  The snows were arriving and blanketing the higher elevations.  I was beginning to turn up the weather station more often, to keep abreast of the weather forecasts.  It was time to go and a final run into the Heart Lake area, of Yellowstone, was important to do.  There were a lot of places I didn’t make this year, like Moose Falls, to swim behind the waterfall and the small cave behind the tumbling water.  There are still lots of things to see and do, the next visit to the Yellowstone country.  It won’t be goodbye, but just a moment to ride away, watching the scenes disappearing in my rear view mirror.  But for me, I am ready for the next adventure.


bryan