Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Kansas ~ Its not what you might be expecting

I suspect that many have heard or have even thought to themselves; “What is there to see in such a monotonous and flat state, like Kansas?”   In some respects, they might be partially right, but wouldn’t the same be said about Colorado and Wyoming?  States that often are remembered because of their mountainous areas and thus, overlooking the areas that actually are larger, by square miles, than Kansas and it’s flat lands?  One of the things that I am thinking, as I am traveling around this great country of ours is:  “Where are the farm fields to grow things?”  And by this I mean the lands of Louisiana, Mississippi and Alabama.  As citizens of this country we are lucky to have this ability to grow so many “table foods” within Kansas and other “Plains States.”   Also, Kansas is celebrating its Sesquicentennial in 2011!  Just a mere 150 years ago, on January 29th, 1861, Kansas joined the Union.  The state of Oregon had joined the Union just two years before and then, two years after Kansas joined the Union, West Virginia became a part of this country, too. 

For full disclosure, I was born and raised (at least 17 years) in Kansas, but haven’t lived there for almost forty years.  I might be a little biased in how I love this state, if you were not aware that I have spent those years away, ensconced in the Rocky Mountains.  I am a true believer in that if you take some time to understand something; your appreciation might grow some.  My attempt here, is to share some of the things that I have enjoyed over the last year, as I criss-crossed Kansas, on my numerous travels through this state.  So I thought I would start 2011 with a second attempt at a Trip Report.  As with my earlier Blogs, this one is of Kansas and maybe present a view many might not have seen before. 

We often have things from our past that have influenced us during the remainder of our lives and I am not much different.  When I was in my teens, I started exploring Kansas by riding my bicycle around the state.  To grab a cold respite, on these rides, I would keep my eyes out for Windmills.

For those of us, that are still riding bicycles, Kansas is celebrating its 37th  year of a program known as;  Bike across Kansas, or BAK, for short.  They have upwards of 900 riders enjoying the two lane roads, as it’s riders criss cross the state.  Even though the Kansas winds prevail from the south, as it is my memory the wind would change each direction I changed to.  This seem to ensure that I had a "headwind" each direction I was pedaling.  Funny how a child mind's remembers these things, or maybe it was a fact!

It seems my photo logs always seemed to be salted with Windmills.  So let me express my apologies now, while I self indulge.

GPS: 38.8751,-98.0389

Ok, Maybe the use of a lens shrinks the sizes of Windmills, just a tab bit.

We are seeing these Wind Farms throughout the country; the most famous would be the Bakersfield, California/ Tehachapi Pass Wind Farm Tehachapi Pass Wind Farm in California, as well as this Smokey Hill Wind Farm  along I 70, in what is known as the; Blue Hills of Ellsworth County.  The farm encompasses approximately 12,000 Acres, with expectations to expand to 20,000 Acres. 

These monsters are held aloft by huge masts, manufactured in Texas and Colorado and transported to the various locations by truck;
No matter what your Opinions might be on these types of projects, they are providing a significant return in energy.   Such as the Spearville Wind Farm, just a few miles east of Dodge City, Kansas on US 50 at Spearville, Kansas.

GPS: 37.8558,-997535
The the original settlers recognized that the power of the wind and by harnessing this energy it would provide a necessity that many of us now, take for granted.  Another necessity was the natural water springs to water the beasts of burden and Iron Horses.  These springs often dictated the direction that many of the original Trails West’ followed.   To now search out some of these Springs’ Locations, provides some interesting locations to explore.  Such as Alcove Springs, outside of Marysville, Kansas.  This site is the location of one of the many stops of the doomed and infamous The Donner-Reed Party.  At this location, one of the first members to perish, along their difficult journey, was Sarah Keys and was buried nearby.  The location of this spring and many other important springs became well known to the western travelers, along these western routes;

GPS: 39.7497,-96.6791

Many trails originated or crossed Kansas during the great western expansion of the United States.  One of these communities that is often synonymous with the west and the expansion west, is Dodge City, Kansas.  Of course, Dodge City would not be Dodge without Wyatt Earp, as the possible Town Marshall;


GPS: 37.7529,-100.0168



























 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
You will find the typical Tourist recreations of an Old West Town and the actual Boot Hil,l is just a short walk up to the Hill, too.  Directly across the street is a Railroad Depot, with a museum providing history of the cattle drives that would terminate in Dodge City, from as far away as Texas.  The Railroad had a direct impact on the demise of these storied cattle drives, as the Iron Rails expanded further.
The fact that the 100th Meridian  bisects Dodge City is an interesting fact and is commemorated here.
Along many of these routes, these pioneers often walked, rode horseback and if they were lucky, riding in Prairie Schooners seeking refuge in places, such as Fort Dodge, (GPS: 37.7320,-99.9358)  just East of Dodge City. 

Prairie Schooners ruts are still visible in certain areas of the state.  One of these areas is found along US 83, between the towns of Oakley and Garden City Kansas.  One of my favorite routes is the Butterfield Overland Trail Despatch (correct spelling for Despatch).  There is a really nice museum of this trail and the history of the surrounding area, at the old County Court House in Russell Springs, Kansas;     

GPS: 38.912366,-101.18052
While I was traveling in the backcountry of Guadalupe Mountains National Park, Texas, I encountered some trail signs for the Overland Butterfield Mail Route, and this caused me some confusion when I was following the Butterfield Overland Trail in Kansas.  So when I looked into it I found that the only connection to the Overland Butterfield Despatch was in name only. 

GPS: 31.852081,-104.946556


Wagon trains often used natural landmarks for helping their travels west and one of these natural landmarks can be found along the river tributaries feeding The Smokey Hill River watershed.  There are many of these eroded sedimentary outcroppings, some of them along riverbeds which ironically make great boondocking locations.  Just you the wide open spaces, stars at night and the rumblings of passing thunderstorms, that seem to punctuate the evening skies.

GPS:38.756744,-100.94882
Many miles, to the East, are a much more famous Monument Rocks and some locals know it as Castle Rocks, just a few miles east of US 83, south of Oakley Kansas and I-70.

GPS:38.793329,-100.762997
Continuing south, within a quarter of a mile, there is a stream and an old abandoned Kansas Homestead with occupants out and about.  I stopped to invite them over for dinner that night.  But, as often happens with me, they beat a quick retreat.  Maybe it is my cooking or I might of let slip what I was planning on fixing that night;

GPS: 38.781856,-100.764027

For anyone looking for a more formal camping area, just south of this location is a small lake area with many campsite locations (utilities) and good fishing at Scott State Park  GPS: 38.67943,-100.911996
One of my favorite hikes, in this area, in this wide open country was along the headwaters of the Smokey Hill River, a few miles South of Oakley Kansas, west of US 83, milepost 29.   GPS: 38.850203,-100.981693
I didn’t have to go very far, before stumbling over some of the wild flowers that punctuate the open plains.  They are for those that want to stop their speeding across this state to just to get out and smell the flowers, but be careful with what you might stick your nose into, remember what your mom told you about knowing when to mind your own business; 

Common Sunflower  -  Helianthus annuus





































































Wild Grasses
Showy Chloris - Chloris virgata
Noxious weeds, that seemed to piggy back into the United States, like the irrepressible Tumble Weeds, came to this country mixed into the planting seeds of our grain sources from Europe more than 200 years ago, and we now have an abundance of non native species choking out many of the native plants;

Wavy-Leaf Thistle - Cirsium undulatum  




Purple Poppy-Mallow  -  Callirhoe involucrate


Engelman’s Daisy  -  Engelmannia peristenia


Berlandier’s Flax  -  Linum berlandieri



There is an entire cycle of life that is very apparent within the plains and seeing the different parts and how they complement each other, is another wonder of the plains.  Just like the fountain of life that exists in the “potholes” of the Canyonlands of Utah, Kansas has their own living microinvertraberts in the "pond waters."  From these we get larvae and pupa or something I find so irritating, yep, the Mosquito.  So when I see these crazy Barn Stormers and their Aerobatic maneuvers, I know something is in the works to minimize my discomfort, the Barn Swallow.  Do you ever get the feeling you are being watched?  Yep, they live up to their name and find many crevices to make their seasonal nests out of many dabs of mud.  From these elevated locations, they farm the surrounding areas for the protein of various flying insects.


I have tried so very hard to photograph these birds and often to catch these Fighter Jets, of the Kansas Sky, and I only have this photo, for my efforts.  These are amazing birds to watch, but be prepared to watch them like a tennis match, first this way and then that way, only to find another one to suddenly zoom into your view.
The fields of Kansas Prairie Flowers are often times, overwhelming.  It would seem the plains throughout Oklahoma, Colorado, Nebraska and the Dakotas are often a wave of color during the spring and early summer.  All you need to do is watch for them, as you tour these areas.  Usually a good rainy summer, the previous season, is a good indicator that the wildflowers will be abundant the following season.

Indian Blanket Flower    Gaillardia pulchella


Cardinal Flower  -  Lobelia cardinalis      


  

































Guarding these many vast acres are numerous gates to pass through and one morning I found an indicator why these vast plains remain so fertile, the morning dew that coats everything, including this gate spring one morning;


I found many wonderful remote boondocking locations throughout Western Kansas, and it might be hard to believe, but my rig didn’t have any issues in making it into some of these locations and settling in, for a few days.

GPS: 38.884907,-101.013831





During certain times of the year, it pays to be diligent watch on the horizon and passing clouds.  This particular night became very important, when I was out one evening out on my motorcycle.  I had been riding most of the day and kept watching the big Storm Cumulonimbus clouds building.  I could see by the sheet rain ahead of me, it might be good to seek the shelter of an old barn ahead.  I was lucky to ride into this barn, in time to miss a wave of wind and hail, only to witness the grand display of clouds that rewarded me afterwards.  Such a panorama of contrasts on the great plains of the west.


Some might remember when I posted about my electrical system in my LANCE Camper Electrical Meltdown.  This was when I was traveling through Kansas and it was really hot.  Hot.  Really hot.  I can remember working wheat harvests, as a kid, and it would be some of the hottest days of the season.  Now that a few years have gone by now, my truck camper can get pretty hot too.

During the summer months it can be exceptionally beautiful and with enjoyable temperatures too.  Luckily for me, I have traveled through these times of the year too.


And then have the weather change dramatically, over a 24 hour period.

With my dog, Keiss, enjoying this bit of weather change too.
Personally, I have found it amazing, reading the many books and diaries of these brave individuals.  To imagine that they often left loving families and thriving businesses and farms just to make a change.  They often did this just to seek a new home in a new frontier.  A frontier that was fraught with danger and sometimes murdering outlaws and raiding Indians.  One of these routes was known as The Santa Fe Trail. 
It was because of this important trade route, that the United States installed a system of US Calvary Forts along these routes.  One of these important fortifications was Fort Larned.  The Fort was located a short distance West of the Arkansas River on the Right Fork of the Pawnee River.  This fortification is still available to visit (Non Fee National Park Site), 2 miles west of Larned Kansas on state highway ~ K156.  This fort remained active until the beginning of the Civil War.  The National Park Service has preserved the original buildings and through the generous help and funds of many contributors.  The National Park Service has restored many of these structures to what their original representations.  Fort Larned.
GPS: 38.1837,-99.2186

Soldier’s Barracks;





































Commissioned Officers Quarters Row;


The attention to detail, in the restoration of these historic barracks, is amazing.  So much for the cliché; “Government work.”




This would include the details of the hardware, used to construct these US Calvary Fortifications.  I am told; the Smithy’s would often show their skills by making everyday things, resemble the many things we found in our everyday life.  I can see this in this lock of that era;




The acquisition of water is so important and having it within a garrison is even more important. ( I would point out that the Fort is built alongside the Pawnee River.)  As this local Guide is more than happy to exclaim;

This octagon shaped building is actually the covering for a large hand dug well.  It is easy for me to imagine the days of the horse soldier, when inside it.  Sorry for the sepia toned photo, as my imagination goes back to those early days. 


And, just to the west of the Well House, are the long store buildings where a soldier could easily find the stores for the next campaign, or new buttons for his family and or mail from far away family.



Unfortunately, the outcome of this western travel was not always a happy one.  Some of these original Pioneers fates were sometimes never known to those families they left behind.  Some of the earlier settlers’ are buried in many remote cemeteries, that hold their own interest for those that take a few moments to stop, maybe to Geocache, tour some of the graves and their markers.
GPS: 39.4815,-96.8492





































One of the more interesting graves to be found, is the grave of the incredible Marshall Thomas J. Smith, of Abilene Kansas.  Marshall Smith made his mark, not with a gun, but with his fists.  He eschewed the existence of guns in this new frontier and found that by working with the citizens of Abilene, he was effective with the workings of the law.  One night, he was summoned out of town, to assist another law enforcement group and his fate was sealed, yes, by a gun.
GPS: 38.93929,-97.2217


Also a location, not to be forgotten while visiting Abilene, Kansas, is the Presidential Library and campus and exhibits of  President Dwight David Eisenhower.  I have visited it many times, including the day of his funeral, March 28, 1969.  I just don’t have any recent pictures of this campus, on the south end of Abilene.  But, one should definitely take this in as a stop.  To locate the campus, go south on South Buckley Road (Hwy K-15), or GPS: 38.9120,-97.2128.  President Eisenhower was not born in Abilene, as many assume, but was born in Denison, Texas, after his parents moved there briefly, from Abilene and then returned to Abilene.  If you enjoy history, this president is definitely someone to look up, as he was from the West Point Class that the “Stars Shown Upon,” Class of 1915.  I truly feel saddened that an important Kansan is missing from my report.  I hope to add this to my Trip Report during an upcoming trip, through Kansas. 
Being in the middle of the United States, migratory birds have always found Kansas an inviting location to layover before, continuing onto their breeding grounds, Canada or Wintering locations of Texas and South America.  Cheyenne Bottoms, just Northeast of Great Bend Kansas is one of these great locations and does have a few sites for overnight camping.  There are guided tours of the area and fishing too.
GPS: 38.4493,-98.6378


They have some excellent signage available to help understand the area, in more depth. 




There is also a new museum to explore and learn more about the history of migratory birds and the efforts that early Kansans made to protect these birds.  The museum is free, but closed on Mondays.
GPS: 38.4404,-98.6282









































US 50 is sometimes called the loneliest highway in the USA.  But, that has to be out past Ely, Nevada as it certainly does not apply to the stretch that crosses along the southern portion of Kansas.  Just south of US 50, on Highway US 400 there is an individual, like many individuals in America, that express their right to freedom of speech.  This certainly is quantified in a local farmer, by the name  of M.T. Ligget.  The location where he likes to, “Fly his Flag of Democracy” is in Mullenville, Kansas.  Mr. Ligget has been well known, locally, in the extreme measures he takes to express his opinions, about world leaders and local politicians.  Even his neighbors are not immune to his penchant of public pillorying. 

GPS: 37.5864,-99.4806





While hiking in the area, near Fort Harker GPS: 38.7104,-98.1612, in Ellsworth County, Kansas I started watching one of my favorite birds, an American Bald Eagle. 

Granted, Bald Eagles are not that unusual these days.  That is since their miraculous comeback from the DDT debacle of the late 60s and early 70s.  I have photographed them many times in Yellowstone, along the Madison River and in Idaho.  Sometimes dozens sitting in trees along the river in the winter, but for me to watch them in Kansas, this was an added treat.


After a while the Bald Eagle disappeared around the hill from me and I continued to look for rattlesnakes and Wild Turkeys when I saw something coming at me, fast, and from above.  In a moment I had my camera up and snapped a picture of what seemed the same Eagle as it cleared over my head by only a few yards and saw the very end of his dive as he contacted a small jack rabbit, just as it started moving from a sage brush 20 to 30 yards from me.  Yes, it is good to be out witnessing wildlife in their true habitat, but even better getting proof.  This time, the big one didn’t get away, as you might say for the small jack rabbit.


A few days later, a few miles from the previous location, I was able to watch an Immature Bald Eagle hunting, as well;
GPS: 38.5967,-98.0297
Nearby, there are many farm fields that provide a safe habitat/cover, in the numerous tree windrowsand drainages for some of the ever increasing White Tail Deer populations.  Being a frequent Motorcycle rider, I pay particular attention to these animals and their movements, especially after dark.  After spending decades in the Rocky Mountains, I find any of these types of animals interesting to observe, but one thing is pretty clear, White Tail Deer are really small.  Not much bigger than a large Great Dane.  After watching Moose, Mule Deer and Elk, I am a bit unimpressed with their size, until they mount themselves on the headlight of my motorcycle!
Also in the area, are numerous areas of these curious rock formations, known at Mushroom Rocks.  They extend for a number of miles north and south of Ellsworth County.  An example is even found within one of the rest stops along I-70.  This example is in Mushroom State Park.
GPS: 38.6151,-97.9974


Some of the Rest Areas, from the old WPA days, are in some of the most amazing places.

As so often happens, when traveling along the smaller two lane highways of this country, you meet some of the nicest peoples and eat at some of the most hospitable and delicious places.  This small little town in Kansas exemplifies the nicest people factor.



For, within just a few hundred feet, of the only paved road through town, is a treasure trove of wonderful cars, of an era so long ago.  This is from a period that steam, diesel and gasoline all were viable fuels.  I have always been a car collector, from a time all the way back to my childhood.  Well, there is this guy, a child in an older body, that can’t seem to have enough cars, or buildings or trailers, to store them in.   Careful, don’t linger too long with any one of them, as he will just pull the car you might be enamored with and promptly put you behind the wheel.  In my case, it was a 1919 Stanley Steamer.  Not content with one, he has a pair of them.


To get started, one only has to start it .  .  .  well in a very different way.

his might be an engine that would be fun to take through the emission station,


As my old childhood friend, Glen, is leaning against a very unique Ford Edsel, you might notice the building.  It is entirely foamed and insulated for winter temperatures to keep the Steamers from freezing in the cold winters.

Of course he has a Race Car too! A 1926 Ford Model T, but in Red.


In addition to the three or four dozen vintage cars and fire trucks, he collects bulldozers of all sizes.


Over the years, I have always kept an eye open for unusual finds.  One of the ways I do this, is to watch carefully the dooryards of farms and maybe an open door of a garage, barn or old Quonset Building.  As in the case of the latter, I was rewarded in seeing the outlines of some vintage signs and what looked like sheet covered old Ford Sedans.  This was through a small opening of the double front doors of this Quonset Building in a North Central Kansas town.  Stopping, my friend Glen and I walked over to the doorway and looked in, seeing the below photographed treasures.  We called out for anybody.  Sadly, we didn’t venture any further in, than the doorway.  It was then, as we started to leave, that I heard a chopping sound, around the east side of the Quonset Building.  I followed the sound and found a man chopping wood, be aware he is a man that is 80+ years old, chopping wood.  After a brief introduction and conversation he took us on a tour of his private collection, which lasted two hours.  It might have continued until his son came by and interrupted us.  He was there to take his dad home for dinner.  Yes, traveling the back roads, yields opportunities that are priceless, as was his collection.









The sign owner’s picture


A vintage sign collection would not be a collection without some Burma Shave Signs!




































Even as I traveled around the State, I found many interesting signs, still being used;
Kinsley, Kansas




































Some of the interesting signs I like to stop and view, are of an era that no longer exists, for the most part.  But if you travel some of the back roads these signs sometimes materialize at the least anticipated times and for me, I just needed a break from behind the wheel.
Scott City, Kansas


As the advertising evolved, it often found new places to appear, maybe on the roof of a barn, to tout the wonderment of a Meramec Caverns, or in this case, a period of Art Deco Advertising, new televisions, as well as the perfect family that one thought existed in the homes of; Father Knows Best or Leave it to Beaver;
Kinsley, Kansas

When I was in college, at Kansas State University, I worked on the beginnings of a project to designate some of the last remaining natural prairie lands in the country.  This area spanned, in broken areas, from Iowa to Texas.  One of the areas that did get designation was outside of Cottonwood Falls, Kansas and is now called the; Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve. 
GPS: 38.4338,-96.5585


It is a beautiful area encompassing rolling hills with Limestone Ridges and exposed terraces with natural artesian springs.  These virtually untilled prairies spanning as far as the eye can see.  There are not any campgrounds, but there are numerous trails to explore.  If you are willing to get out on foot, there are some backcountry campsites available.  It pleases me to see this area preserved, much as the original pioneers might have viewed it. 


Of course, these lands were preserved, over the centuries, by large land holdings, which are now part of the history of this preserve and area.  This ranch and prairies are a tribute to the hardy men and women that fought, struggled and lived off the land.  Some were more fortunate than others, in how they survived.
To support a living off of these prairies, sturdy buildings were often constructed with the most abundant building material available, Limestone.  Trees were a rare commodity and the art of creating blocks and posts, out of the surrounding Limestone Bluffs, was a much needed talent.  Throughout the plains, you would see many examples of this construction in stone bridges, School houses and Stone Barns;

Stone store buildings were important, as well.  They were used for housing of the working hands, Seed Storage and in the case of this working ranch, the Town Car for those trips to Wichita or Church.
Some Pioneers resorted to the best type of shelter they could find.  Trees were not always in plentiful supply, due to the constant range fires and some resorted to carving out caves from the soft sandstone and limestone bluffs.  These shelters provided cooler environments, in the hot summers, but they often filled with water from the ever changing water tables.  These Caves are in Ellsworth County and known buy the name of; Faris Caves.
GPS: 38.6932,-98.1030

Often times there were priorities for these early pioneers.  In addition to their faith, they wanted their children to prosper too and to do this, many dedicated land for school houses to be built on their land.  One of my teachers, Miss Wilma Mae Bucknell, came to her school posting in the back of a Prairie Schooner.  She never married and became a wonderful mentor for me.  She often told me how young school teachers were prohibited from marrying; otherwise they would lose their jobs.  Guess they could have used a Union back then.  Here is the one room school house, on the edge of the National Tallgrass Prairie Reserve;
GPS: 38.4409,-96.5575

As the times changed and so did tastes, many stone buildings were modernized, only to be abandoned again.

One of the many priorities to these original homesteaders is to provide culture, to the best of their abilities.  Before the advent of the phenomenon of Moving Pictures and Talkies’, great theaters were constructed to provide a draw people and a bit of culture to these small towns.  People would come from a wide area, just to see these shows.  It wasn’t unheard of to travel for a day, by buckboard to get supplies and then stop in for a stage show, or later, a movie.  One of these theaters has been recently restored in Salina Kansas, known as the Stiefel Theater.  When I was a kid, we just knew it as the Fox Theater.  The debate goes on in what it should be known as, but for now, it is the Stiefel Theater. 

GPS: 38.8384,-97.6088

































Just to the north of Salina, Kansas is another Theater of amazing history and beauty, The Brown Grand Theater of Concordia, Kansas.  GPS: 39.5715,-97.6631 .
In addition, there were fairs and rodeos throughout Kansas and they filled the evenings for many generations with laughter and that elusive opportunity for adventure and entertainment.  Even the national league baseball farm teams, kept many a farm boy’s imagination going and a few coins in their pockets, with the frequent teams and ball fields throughout the plains. 
One of the fairs that now has a national draw is The Smokey Hill River Festival, yes, the same river that I was exploring over 200 miles west, at its headwaters.  This Festival has been going on now, for over 30 years.  In addition to this festival, there are many throughout Kansas. 

The food arcade was always busy and profitable for its vendors and Salina's own American Stimulus plan.

 

Men dressed up as Women, Who’d a guessed it would happen in Kansas?  But this was the case, one year at the Smokey Hill River Festival.  When the original booking occurred, and slowly leaked out to the surrounding population, the letter to the editors just hummed with controversy in the local newspapers.  Even with the negative comments, it was to no avail, as The Kinsey Sicks appeared at the Festival.  Their multiple performances were to overwhelming acclaim and attendance.  But, just in case, there was a contingent of security walking through the crowd. 

After their performance they gathered and relaxed under a nearby Oak Tree, while thrilling a large group of “locals” for a discussion for about an hour.  They had just completed performing at one of the numerous stages and were now enjoying the conservative, liberal, rants from a small group of spectators, captivating the audience with their answers, to the questions being offered to them.

"Hey lady, you’re a dude!" 

"Yes young man, I am.  Are you?"

The Beehived Lady is one of the Kinsey Sicks performers and was very polite with the intrusive young man.  She was talking with others that had just watched her, I mean him, perform at the River Festival.



































A popular performance art to appear at the Festival is the; “Hillside Drawing in the Grass” along the banks of the Smokey hill River.  The ironic point is that this exact location, was one of the scene locations from the movie, Picnic staring a young Kim Novak, the over the top acting from Rosalind Russell, as well as a 37 y.o., William Holden.  It was surprising to me how many people walked through this art work and even a couple laying their blanket down in the middle of it and an impromptu picnic began.

The people watching, at the different performances at the River Festival and Bandstand, was at a premium.  The fact was many were oblivious to someone walking around and ambushing them with a camera.





































Well maybe except for one exceptional boy . . . or at least exceptional in his mind.

"Yeah, dude.  My parents made me come to this lame event. 
You really suck man!" 

Well, I can't make everyone happy taking their picture.



In additional to the standing room only Art Show and Midway, the most popular event is the nightly performances at the Eric Stein Stage at the Smokey Hill River Festival – In this case, the local group;  Blades, featuring Tim Arkebauer & Loren Banninger on vocals)



With some of the superb instruments and talented musicians, as in the Trombone playing by Dr. C.A. Ritter;


The guitar strumming of Greg Boyle;




































Throughout the many acres of Salina’s Oakdale Park, where the Festival was being staged, there were many large pieces of art, like this one.  These large plastic statues were constructed out of plastic sheets and plastic wire ties.  Many of the people enjoying the festival were walking around and posing next to these animals.

Whatever happened to the days of Huck Finn and Tom Sawyer with a hot Saturday along the river, a few good fishing poles, a dog and no dawg gone girls around .  .  .  oh yeah, a cell phone and money from mom, to buy some junk food.
One of the things I have found, humor seems to be a staple in the rural towns and back roads of Kansas.  Kansas is not lacking in these funny interludes either, take for example, the small lake and beach, also used in the movie Picnic, in Lyons Kansas.  Along the North bank, of the city lake is a large public beach and bath house;

and just across the very small expanse of water, is a group of homes that back up to this lake and public beach, when I found this character out, well, maybe; “Girl Watching?”

Some of the best viewing of Kansas is found by traveling along the roads and highways of Kansas, as in this stretch through the CK Ranch along Highway K141, in Ellsworth County Kansas;



Horse Thief Canyon, near nearby Lake Kanopolis (lots of nice campgrounds (utilities) around this lake;


A Thanksgiving Kansas Sunset along US 50 ~ west of Dodge City Kansas


A Kansas Sunrise along US 50, east of Kingman, Kansas on a New Years Day.





































During the oil Booms, of the early 20th Century, a Kansas City Barber borrowed money from his father-in-law to follow another opportunity by trying three wells in nearby Bartlesville, OK.  The first wells were bust, but Frank Phillips and his brother L.E. and Waite, prevailed and within time, built an empire known to many as Phillips Petroleum, or Phillips 66.  Waite Phillips New Mexico winter ranch was popular with the celebrities of the roaring 20s as well as statesman and upon his death, the family bequeathed the ranch to a nonprofit, known as the Boy Scouts and the ranch was from that point forward known as Philmont Ranch. The Phillips pioneered many things, such as the first interstate pipelines to ship petroleum as well as producing the first series of uniform Gas Stations, to further market his growing company.  These iconic gas stations with their Tudor Pitched roofs, can be found all over America, but often found along the two lane highways of Kansas.

And sometimes you can find some of the old signage still visible;




Some of the small towns of Kansas, such as in Goodland, Kansas, still line their main street with red bricks and their buildings still display the popular advertising of a time long gone. 

Just like in a Frank Capra movie, small town Bedford Falls exists everywhere, such as Cottonwood Falls, Kansas and its historic Chase Country Courthouse;


As well as in Clay Center, Kansas and their Courthouse Square;



































As one would travel these highways, during the middle of the 20th Century, many travelers seeked out places to celebrate their faith and this was provided in a small chapel, not much bigger than the bed of a farm truck, in Garfield, Kansas.  Right next to US Highway 56, south of Ft Larned.  This is a chapel with the door that seems never to be locked;


The Chapel’s Interior




































In the changing of the west, the railroads often had towns spring up along the tracks and Emporia, Kansas was one of those towns that exemplified the railroad expansion.  With this change, came the influx of people that wanted to get their national news, even out on the plains of Kansas.  One of these newspapers, during the times of the early 20th Century, was The Emporia Gazette.  What made this newspaper unique was the founder, publisher, editor and Pulitzer Prize Winner, William Allen White and his editorial in 1896; “What’s the matter with Kansas.”   The newspaper is still operating and nearby, you can tour the William Allen White Home in Emporia Kansas.
Thank you for joining me on this celebration of a wonderful state, Kansas.  I am looking forward to my next adventure and the discovery of what I might find down the next two lane roadway.
bryan